Grilled Lamb Chops with Salsa Tapenade

We’re back.

Vacation was filled with good food, friends and family.

It was better than ever.

Coming home to a gorgeous Middle Tennessee spring with summer on the way was even better.

We’re taking a brief respite from seafood.

For about a day.

But what a way to take a break by having some grilled lamb chops, fresh asparagus and a great salsa to top the chops, using my homemade Tapenade with some happy additions.

It’s good to be home.

Salsa Tapenade

2 tbsp black olive Tapenade*
½ cup roasted red bell peppers
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
2 tbsp capers
A good splash of balsamic vinegar
¼ cup sun dried tomatoes in oil, chopped

Makes about ¾ cup.
Combine and serve on top of the grilled chops.



The Chops
4 good sized lamb chops, seasoned with a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice, coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Grill 4 minutes per side.
Serves 3.


Black Olive Tapenade

¼ cup toasted pine nuts
1-¼ cup pitted Nicoise olives
1 tbsp garlic confit (or 4 fat garlic cloves, peeled)
4 anchovy fillets
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Put pine nuts, olives, garlic, anchovies and olive oil in food processor and pulse off and on til thick but not mush. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper.

Makes about 1-½ cups. Keep top covered with olive oil and this will last indefinitely in the refrigerator.
Yes, this appeared several weeks ago. Versatility is its middle name!

Grilled Lamb Chops with Salsa Tapenade

Mary Herbert's Three Layer Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Buttercream Frosting

We are still in the celebratory mode here at the beach.

All Groom wanted for his birthday was one of Mary Herbert’s chocolate cakes.

And this one is a winner.

Easy to bake in a kitchen Herbs has never seen before and the end result is one of those cakes we’ll talk about in the years to come.

It’s the kind of cake that gets better with time and smaller with time, because someone’s mother keeps going past it and straightening up the sides. It’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, dinner, morning snack, midnight snack, come up from the beach because you think no one else will be up in the kitchen eating the cake but they are kind of snack. Or just dessert.

Be prepared. This is a very thin batter but rises to heights unachieved by many cakes. It’s moist, deep chocolate flavor gets better as it ages. It truly is best made a day before you serve it.
If it lasts that long!

Mary Herbert’s Three Layer Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Buttercream Frosting

Cake:

2-½ cups all purpose flour
3 cups sugar
1-1/8 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2-¼ tsp baking powder
2-¼ tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
3 eggs
1-½ cups whole milk
¾ cup vegetable oil
1 tbsp real vanilla extract
1-½ cups boiling water

Preheat oven to 350.

Grease three 9-inch round cake pans. Cut three pieces parchment paper to fit the bottom of the pans, place in pans and spray with vegetable spray, like Pam.

Combine flour, sugar, soda, baking powder and salt in large bowl. Blend well with electric mixer on low speed. While on low, add eggs one at a time until mixed well. Slowly add milk, oil, vanilla and put mixer on medium and blend well. Put speed on low and add boiling water in slow stream.

When combined, pour into the prepared cake pans and bake 30 minutes or until cake tester comes out clean.

Cool then remove from the pan. You can wrap these individually in saran wrap and freeze for later use.

Chocolate Buttercream Frosting

8 tbsp unsalted butter, room temp
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
3 cups confectioner's sugar, sifted
1/3 cup whole milk
2 tsp real vanilla extract
¼ tsp salt

Place butter and the cocoa powder in large bowl. Blend on low with electric mixer til soft and well combined. That takes about 30 seconds. Stop mixer. Put the confectioner's sugar, milk, vanilla, salt in bowl and beat with mixer on low speed til the frosting lightens and is fluffy. Add more milk if it’s too thick and more confectioner’s sugar if too thin.

Makes enough to frost a 3 layer cake.

The cake will serve 16. Or one person, who shall remain nameless, 6 times, and 10 others.

Thanks to Mark for the "rc" decor on top of the cake!

Mary Herbert's Three Layer Chocolate Cake with Chocolate Buttercream Frosting

Where the Group Sallies Forth to Celebrate at Avenue Sea

Birthdays come and birthdays go. Some celebrated with extreme style and others take on no special meaning.

Not so with Groom’s.

Every year we are at the beach with a dear group of people and every year we celebrate his day in style.

This year, the celebration took place on my dad’s birthday as well.

So our celebration doubled in meaning.

And style.


Avenue Sea is a gem in the land of fried seafood.

It’s one of those places that you want to tell people about and then again you want to keep it to yourself. But not so much that no one will go there and not so much that everyone will.


Chefs David and Ryanne Carrier direct this wonderful place located in the Gibson Inn in Apalachicola, Florida. A large dining room with creamy walls and dark wood flooring, it’s the perfect room to enjoy food prepared by these talented chefs. David Carrier was chosen by Thomas Keller to work at French Laundry after he graduated from the French Culinary Institute. After several years he moved to Illinois and then, with his wife, Ryanne, a noted pastry Chef in Chicago, to Apalachicola to take over the dining room at the Gibson Inn.


And take it over they did.

Concentrating on locally grown ingredients these two talented people have created one of the best dining experiences you will ever have. They state on the menu that “all of our food is prepared a la minute. Please take advantage of the time spent preparing your food to enjoy those who are in your company.”

Not a problem.




I took pictures finally at dessert. I was too busy enjoying the seven course tasting menu and a delicious Hubert Brochard Sancerre.

This was our second visit to Avenue Sea. It won’t be our last.

Happy Birthday, boys.

Avenue Sea Seven Course Tasting Menu

Sunchoke Veloute with Marjoram and Curry Scented Crème Fraiche..served warm in espresso cups, this was at once buttery, earthy and rich.

Sashimi of Cobia with Bok Choy and Thai Peppercorns…three diamonds of fresh cobia, a fish that is sweet and lemony, on top of shredded bok choy and fleur de sel flavored with seasoned rice vinegar and florally Thai peppercorns…like nothing I’ve ever tasted before.

Olive Oil Poached Oysters with Garlic, Nicoise Olives and Sourdough Crisp Topped with Shaved Fennel…tiny poached oysters, roasted garlic and Nicoise olives in a warm, fruity olive oil..the fennel stirred in at the last minute.. The sweet crunch of the fennel just the perfect touch.

Roasted Alligator Harbor Clams with Roasted Garlic, Chorizo and Preserved Lemon..face down in this one, the clams tiny and sweet, the chorizo hot and spicy and the preserved lemons..ohhhh mama.

Sweet Grass Dairy Chevre Agnolloti with Golden and Red Beets and Chervil…tiny puffs of fresh pasta filled with creamy chevre on top of the roasted golden beets and a red beet reduction topped with chevre was sheer bliss.

Roasted Rib Eye with Young Onion, Pomme de Terre Puree and Sauce Bordelaise..a beautifully braised young onion on the side of slices of perfectly roasted rib eye that melted in your mouth on top of a creamy buttery puree of potatoes..the bordelaise rich and brown.

Soft Shell Crab atop Creamy White Grits with Country Ham and Sauteed Kale..just when you think you're done, out comes the tiniest soft shell crab perfectly cooked served with the most familiar ingredients.

Cheese course

Sweet Grass Dairy Lumiere..with ash..creamy from Thomasville, Georgia
Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill Cow, triple cream from Thomasville, Georgia
Berthaut Epoisse, Washed Rind Cow from Burgundy France stinky stinky cheese!No gray area here..you like it or you hate it.
Haystack Mountain Queso de Mano Goat Cheese from Colorado.. A firm cheese, could be grated..parmesan like..
Roncal Sheep Valle de Roncal Spain..Manchego in the house
Cabrales Sheep and Cow from Asturia Spain..in the blue family
Shropshire Blue from Nottingham England…
All served with toasted pecans, sliced apple and pear.


Then we died and went to heaven with the desserts.

Pistachio Mousse Crepes with Strawberry Compote..sugared berries along the side of small sweet crepes filled with creamy pistachio mousse

Panna Cotta, Apalachicola Elderberry Gelee, Elderberry Sorbet, Linzer Cookies..creamy custardy panna cotta topped with the gelee, sorbet on the top side, tiny linzer cookie..fabulous flavors .


Milk Chocolate Souffle Tart with Salted Caramel, Milk Chocolate, Sauce and Vanilla Ice Cream..with candle aflame for the birthday boy…nothing like it in the world.


Apalachicola River Tupelo Honey Pecan Baklava with English Style Iced Tea and a Pecan Cream..
Sweet Iced tea with a frothy nutty cream on top to sip while eating the sweet baklava.


Thank God his birthday comes just once a year!

Where the Group Sallies Forth to Celebrate at Avenue Sea

Soft Shell Crab Meuniere

It’s been said that whoever ate the first oyster had to be incredibly hungry. Same goes for the one who ate the first soft shell crab.

I’ve had fried soft shell crabs with coleslaw before, but I wanted to do something a little different and not fried. A quick search on Epicurious gave us direction. And our version below worked beautifully.

After cleaning the crabs, we soaked them in milk for about five minutes. Then they’re put into the hot clarified butter and cooked til they turn this fabulous reddish brown.

Then take them out of the pan and make a fast Meuniere sauce and you are good to go!



Soft Shell Crab Meuniere
adapted from an Epicurious.com recipe

12 small live soft shell crabs, cleaned
2 cups milk
Pinch cayenne
2 cups white cornmeal
2 sticks unsalted butter, clarified
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 lemons
Fresh chopped cilantro, between a quarter to a half cup
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

To clarify the 2 sticks of butter, put in saucepan over medium heat until butter melts. Remove from heat and let sit til milk solids sink to bottom . Pour off butter into measuring cup, leaving milk solids in bottom of pan.

Put crabs in large pyrex lasagna pan and pour milk over. Turn to coat with milk and add more if you need it.
Let sit and soak for five minutes.

Put cornmeal and cayenne in Ziploc bag and shake to mix.

Heat clarified butter in two large skillets over medium - medium high heat.

Dredge the crab in the cornmeal mix, shake off excess and put in hot butter. Cook on both sides til the crab turns a reddish golden brown.

Remove from skillets and add the 4 tbsp butter to one of the pans. Melt til the butter starts smelling nutty and remove from heat. Squeeze lemon juice directly into pan and swirl. Add chopped cilantro and drizzle crabs with the sauce and serve.

Serves 6

Soft Shell Crab Meuniere

Shrimp Salad

What are the basics of beach vacations?

Sand, pelicans, sleeping late, eating later, pool volleyball showing off your best Esther Williams moves.

Then there’s shrimp.

You get to the beach .. You get to your seafood guy before he closes.

Cap’n Doug has the best fresh seafood in this part of the world.

Three pounds of beautiful extra large shrimp steamed with lemon and cayenne and salt…so good. Perfect dinner after 10 hours in the car.

The leftovers became another beach tradition.

Shrimp Salad.

Enter Nanny, the shrimp salad master to “whomp” up lunch.



And it was terrific. Cold shrimp, hard boiled eggs, sweet paprika, a hint of cayenne and horseradish in a spicy mayo dressing on top of ice cold romaine lettuce.

It’s gonna be a great vacation!

Nanny’s Shrimp Salad

½ pound cooked extra large shrimp, peeled and cut into three pieces
2 eggs, hardboiled, quartered and quartered again
1/2-1 cup Hellmann’s mayonnaise
3 little center stalks of celery, diced
1 green onion, diced (use up to the half of the green)
1 tsp sweet Spanish paprika
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp horseradish sauce
Dash of cayenne pepper
A squeeze of lemon juice

Combine and serve on romaine lettuce leaves.

Should serve three but two people ate it all and the third person had to eat a smoked turkey sandwich.

Shrimp Salad

Bye Bye, Baby!!

We’re outta here!!

We’re off to the beach for ten days.

How cool is that!

I wonder if an oyster just said to its neighbor…
Oh hell, they’re on their way.
We need to get out of here . NOW.
Too late!!!!

Pompano and red snapper are packing their little bags .And the Shrimp family put the rent to own sign on their little area and running to catch a fast ride to elsewhere.

Cause we are on the way, babay!!!

Posting will continue as the list of what is headed south in various cars reads like a wish list for a gourmet grocery!

You would think we were headed to Timbuktu instead of the Gulf of Mexico.

But, there you go.

Have food will travel!

Stay tuned!

Bye Bye, Baby!!

Rose Levy Berenbaum's Hearth Bread

I made bread.

Good bread.

Edible. Not a doorstop.

Made Groom smile.

Made me smile. Made the house smell like a bakery.

And it was easy. There wasn’t a lot of kneading. There wasn’t a warm water thing with the yeast.

And I’ll do this again.

After 30 years and God knows how many doorstops I’ve made, the curse is broken.

Thank God for Rose Levy Berenbaum.

Rose Levy Berenbaum’s Hearth Bread from the back of the Gold Medal Harvest King Bread Flour Bag

3-1/3 cups Harvest King bread flour
¼ cup whole wheat flour
1-½ tsp fine sea salt
1-¼ tsp bread machine yeast
1-1/3 cups water
1 tsp honey
Extra virgin olive oil

Lightly spoon flour into measuring cup, level off with knife. In medium bowl, stir together flours, salt and yeast. Stir in water and honey.

Place dough on silpat and knead til smooth an springy but still slightly sticky. Add a little flour or water as necessary. Lightly brush oil inside of large bowl. Place dough inside bowl and turn to oil all sides. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let rise in warm place about an hour or until dough has doubled in size. Dough is ready if indentation remains when touched.

Line a cookie sheet with cooking parchment paper or lightly sprinkle with cornmeal. Gently push fist into dough to deflate. Flatten dough and shape into round ball. Place on cookie sheet. Cover with oiled plastic wrap and let rise in warm place for 45 minutes or until dough has doubled in size again.

Place baking stone on lowest rack in oven. Heat oven to 475. Carefully cut an x shaped slash on top of the dough. Spray with cool water. Place cookie sheet in oven on baking stone. Place 1 cup water in shallow pan on another oven rack.

Bake 10 minutes reduce oven temperature to 425. Bake an additional 20 minutes or until bread is golden brown and skewer in center comes out clean.

Cool completely on baking rack. Like this is going to ever happen in this house!

Ideas for things to stir in:
¼ cup of Kalamata olives,
Roasted garlic cloves, cut up sundried tomatoes, sliced chives, shelled sunflower seeds, 1 tsp fresh or ½ tsp dried herbs.

Rose Levy Berenbaum's Hearth Bread